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Squirrels & Wildlife

Will Squirrels Eat Your Garden? What's Actually at Risk

Squirrels dig up bulbs, strip tomatoes, and raid every nut tree in reach — but leave most vegetables alone. What they actually target, and what stops them.

A fox squirrel foraging among flowering plants in a garden bed
Photo: LMorland, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Squirrel garden damage is real but narrower than it often gets described — they target a specific, predictable list of things, and leave most of a vegetable garden alone entirely.

What is actually at risk

Squirrel interest in common garden plants and foods
Plant / foodRisk levelNotes
Tomatoes (ripening)HighSingle bite taken as fruit reddens; wasteful rather than thorough
Bulbs (tulip, crocus)HighDug up and eaten or relocated in autumn
CornHighEars stripped, often before full ripeness
Strawberries & soft fruitHighTaken whole when accessible
Newly sown seedsModerate-highDug up while foraging, not necessarily eaten
Walnuts, acorns, pine conesNatural foodForaged and cached — not “damage”
Apples & grapesModerateTaken when ripe and reachable
Carrots & root vegetablesLow-moderateOccasional interest, rarely primary target
Leafy greensLowGenerally not preferred
Onions & garlicVery lowStrong scent/taste generally deters them

The single-bite pattern is the tell

A squirrel eating a tomato characteristically takes one bite and abandons the rest, rather than consuming it fully — which means the number of damaged fruit overstates how much a squirrel actually eats. This pattern, more than total loss, is usually the giveaway that squirrels rather than a bird or insect are involved.

Why bulbs and buried nuts show up together

Squirrels cache food by burying it, individually, across open ground — lawns and garden beds are prime real estate for this because the soil is loose and easy to dig. This is also why freshly planted bulbs get disturbed: a squirrel does not know the difference between its own buried acorn and a tulip bulb you just planted, and will dig up both while foraging or re-caching.

This is normal, necessary behaviour for the animal — squirrels rely on cached food to survive winter — rather than deliberate destruction, even though the effect on a bulb bed looks the same either way.

What actually reduces the damage

  • Bulb cages or hardware-cloth liners under newly planted bulbs stop digging without harming the animal.
  • Harvest ripening fruit slightly early and finish ripening indoors if squirrel pressure on tomatoes or soft fruit is heavy — a few days earlier than ideal beats losing the fruit entirely.
  • Blood meal or capsaicin-based repellents around bulb beds are commonly used, though effectiveness varies and both wash off in rain and need reapplying.
  • A dedicated feeding station away from the vegetable garden, stocked with the nuts and seed squirrels actually want, can reduce pressure on food crops by giving them an easier, preferred alternative nearby.
  • Physical barriers — cages, row covers, netting — are the most reliable option for anything small enough to protect, particularly strawberries and seedlings.

Do not feed them deliberately, and never chocolate

Chocolate contains theobromine, which squirrels cannot metabolise safely, the same underlying issue that makes it dangerous for dogs. Beyond that specific risk, deliberately feeding squirrels — even with safe food — tends to increase their tolerance of being near people and gardens, which usually increases rather than decreases the pressure on what you are trying to protect.

The garden-versus-wildlife trade-off

Squirrels are also useful in a yard — they disperse tree seeds (a meaningful share of new oak growth traces back to acorns a squirrel buried and never retrieved), and they are prey for the hawks and owls that help control other pest populations. Most gardeners land on protecting the small list of genuinely vulnerable plants — bulbs, ripening fruit, corn — rather than trying to exclude squirrels from the yard entirely, which is both difficult and removes a generally beneficial animal along with the occasional cost.

For how long a resident squirrel population is likely to stick around, and what actually limits their numbers, see how long do squirrels live.

Common questions

Do squirrels eat tomato plants?

They eat the tomatoes, not usually the plant itself. Squirrels take a single bite out of a ripening tomato — often just before it is fully ripe — then move on, which wastes far more fruit than they actually consume. The foliage and stems are generally left alone.

Do squirrels eat walnuts, acorns, and pine cones?

Yes, all three are natural squirrel food and among their most important wild food sources, along with other tree nuts. A squirrel burying acorns and walnuts across a lawn in autumn is caching food for winter, not causing deliberate damage.

Can squirrels eat chocolate?

Chocolate is toxic to squirrels for the same reason it is toxic to dogs — theobromine, which they cannot metabolise safely. It should never be deliberately fed to them, though an incidental nibble from unattended food is unlikely to be fatal in a small amount.

Do squirrels eat bread?

They will eat bread if offered, but it provides poor nutrition relative to their natural diet and is not something to feed them deliberately. It is more relevant as a reason not to leave bread scraps out than as a targeted food.

What vegetables are squirrels least likely to damage?

Squirrels generally leave alone strongly scented or bitter crops such as onions, garlic, and most leafy greens. They are far more interested in soft fruit, ripening tomatoes, corn, bulbs, and anything recently planted as a seedling or bulb.

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